Welcome to Pattern Making Academy (PMA)

Why Choose PMA ?

PMA publications are designed to:

• Show the way to master new directions in product development of female garments
• Provide resources that are focused on forward thinking for the 21st century
• Present easy to follow systems with step-by-step instructions for self-paced learning
• Use data that has been comprehensively researched
• Employ proven technical processes
• Apply the findings of many years of study, research, and field experiments
• Encourage industry sustainability & ecological conservation
• Emphasize the basics that are essential for transition into the digital realm
• Help users to make better fitting garments across a range of body shapes
• Facilitate the upgrade of knowledge & skills as well as broaden employment opportunities
• Use body shape systems as opposed to conventional sizing
• Show comprehensively how to identify & apply essential elements of pattern making
• Offer real world education and training

Who is PMA for ?

Small and medium businesses are PMA’s primary target but the systems are well-suited for all of the following:

• Education and training providers
• Industry product development personnel
• Retail brands who design and produce their own ranges
• Students
• Upskilling
• Reskilling
• Libraries
• Entrepreneurs
• Anyone who is passionate about designing and making better fitting garments

The ongoing technological explosion has delivered many benefits to the apparel production industry. However, the cost of progress has been the gradual sacrifice of traditional pattern engineering skills and practices. Many traditionalists would claim that sacrificing these skills contributes to female garment fit issues that continue to frustrate consumers.

The buzzword used continually by the apparel industry today is

DIGITAL!  DIGITAL!   DIGITAL!

The question is: Can Traditional Systems be woven into Digital Technology?
Can new Digital Technology be combined with Traditional Knowledge and Skills?

PMA believes that digital and traditional skills CAN and SHOULD both be combined when necessary. 

Why Traditional Skills are Needed

Although digital technology has made a major leap forward in recent times PMA believes that traditional skills must still be utilized with digital skills.
More than two decades ago, an experienced industry researcher with 3D body scanning and data extraction experience stated that “there will always be the need for [the use of] a tape measure”.
This statement continues to be supported at the present time by other researchers; their findings are as follows:

• 3D body scanning has some limitations as specific parts of the body cannot be scanned completely
• Scanned measurements may be distorted by variations in fat deposits or muscle mass
• The provision of more information via meta data and the use of AI suggests that 3D scanning will eventually become an acceptable source for the extraction of most body measurements
• A sound basis for retaining hands-on measuring skills [where needed] is that direct observation of an individual body shape, and measurement, leads to an intuitive understanding of figure anomalies that may affect the fit of garments
• Moreover, as well as measurement skills, manual pattern making and engineering knowledge and skills are equally necessary because all systems are not the same. Research has shown that using the same measurement with different pattern engineering systems can produce markedly different fitting outcomes!

PMA eBook Unit 12 provides more information on this.

“Fast Fashion” has been singled out as a main contributor to poor fitting clothing. The results, far too often end up as massive wastage of garments on landfill.

The oversupply and discarding of ill-fitting garments add to existing environmental sustainability concerns, not only about mountains of landfill, but also depletion of valuable resources like water, and pollution of waterways – all of which are irrevocably connected to garment manufacturing. You can read more commentary about this in PMA eBook Unit 12.

Side note: The Australian Broadcasting Commission [ABC] recently filed a report on ‘Dead white man’s clothes‘ in South Africa. 
PMA is strongly committed to the practice of sustainable fashion and has therefore added the link https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bB3kuuBPVys  for those who may be interested.

PMA’s printed and electronic eBooks presenting Pattern Engineering Systems for five female figure types are provided in an innovative, easy to understand format. The small, stand-alone units use colour-coding and step-by-step instructions to create master blocks for an individual, fit model or your target market.

The books also cover the following:

• KEY elements identified as the foundation of pattern engineering
• A fascinating look at the history of pattern engineering
• A comprehensive literature review of opinions about the directions pattern engineering may take in the future
• Future scenarios and predictions relating to broader aspects of the fashion industry

PMA addresses a range of interests and needs:

• Body shape as opposed to outdated sizing systems [female figure shapes have changed dramatically over the past 5 decades]
• Guides for brands to develop new blocks for an evolving target market
• Average measurements for 5 female body shapes;   instructions presented in a self-paced learning format
• Colour coding for body type recognition
• Easy to follow step by step instructions with scaled diagrams
• How to draft master blocks for bodice, sleeve, dress, skirt and pant for each figure type
• Stand-alone drafting instructions for each body shape
• PMA essential elements that highlight anatomy [skeletal structure]; morphology [body shape]; geometric shapes; and anthropometry [how to take measurements]
• Fascinating snippets about pattern making and pattern engineering history, and possible future scenarios
• The FD~CS engineering systems can be used not only for the five featured figure types, but also for other body types that correspond in shape, but not necessarily in measurements
• PMA is also strong on versatility as well as transferability as the systems can be used to make patterns [with slight modifications] for children and teenagers
• The principles in Unit1: Essential Elements of Pattern Making are a recommended prerequisite before commencing PMA pattern engineering systems
• We have ensured that our books are affordable and accessible and can be purchased on our website.

Rudaina [Jordan, Southwest Asia] messaged: “When I quickly started flipping through the book and reading here and there, I became speechless. It is a very fabulous, unique book. What caught my attention is the new, fresh approach you had in drafting a sewing pattern.

For the first time I see a pattern making method that takes into consideration shape and the anatomy of the female body as a primary element in drafting, and it makes sense. I also think that each fashion designer and pattern making engineer should have some knowledge in anatomy, and it would be a good idea if it is included in the curriculum at university.

Thanks to you, measuring shall be more accurate and much easier. A person will know where, and why to take them is important.

It is also interesting that you rely on shape not size. As you have explained in your book, each body shape has unique specifications and is important in fitting as well in drafting.

Drafting to shape not size is very convincing and the nice thing about your book is that you mention these specifications in each drafting process in a table.

It is magnificently detailed and you have not forgotten a thing! It takes you step by step through each stage and reminds you of other things you should be aware of. It is especially good for a beginner. The coloured lines have a great advantage in the learning process. The book is visually oriented and that is what it should be like. Some things need to be visual …. for clarifying points, especially drafting”.

Pauline [Brisbane, Qld] designs and makes female garments for her fashion range. She says that the PMA resources, with their particular emphasis on shape, are really beneficial, as her range is focused on the fuller figure. Pauline reports that applying the body shape concept produces well-fitting garments for her target market.

Jane [UK] teaches students to design and make garments. Jane has messaged: “I’m having the time of my life reading through the Pattern Making Academy material. This is exactly what I’ve been needing – particularly as regards the different (modern) body types; and your explanations are so clear. Enormous thanks for all your work, and for giving so much helpful detail.  There’ll be no stopping me now!”

Eileen [South Ayrshire, Scotland] has emailed:  “I was really impressed by the Fig H blocks – the bodice block and the dress block fitted so well with only the most minor of adjustments, so I thought I would get the complete book as I have all shapes and sizes in my sewing class and it will allow me to make custom blocks for my ladies. (I love drafting and fitting blocks). I look forward to diving into The Fashion Design System book when it arrives.”

“The Fashion Design System is the result of a major conceptual break-through, moving away from “size” classification to “shape” classification of female garments. Garments produced with the method described in this book will better fit a much larger number of women than garments produced with any other traditional methods because the new system recognises actual shapes of women rather than just saying that some women are small and some large”

Maciej Henneberg PhD, DSc
Wood Jones Professor of Anatomy
The University of Adelaide

Utilizing the systems and methodologies of PMA has allowed us to develop our own unique master blocks based on the shape of real women. We have, and continue to use these master blocks as a basis for many of our clothing designs in our Love Lily Range. PMA and the work of Doctor Kath Berry has given us an edge to offer clothing that fits and suits the needs of our customers which is revolutionary for the fashion industry.

Carolyn Shelley
NOOSA SWIMWEAR

Hi – Just a shout out to Kath Berry at Pattern Making Academy.

We have been using Kath’s sizing system for some time now with great success for our own ladies clothing label. Using the sizing system by body shape is genius.  Thanks to Kath our Brand is selling through our own stores and has been an amazing success.

Sue Bowering
Sea Elements Noosa

“The PMA has been an integral part to my education in pattern engineering systems and I highly recommend PMA products to anyone interested or involved in female pattern systems. Doctor Kath Berry’s findings are clearly communicated and demonstrated in engaging visuals. Overall, has been a positive educational experience.”

Anabele Galagher (Fashionista)
Brisbane

I have been using Pattern Making Academy’s pattern engineering system for several years.

I am a professional dressmaker and my niche market includes bridal, evening wear and special garments for end of year senior school proms etc.

I can now make patterns for individuals with varying figure types and body shape with success.

Using the essential elements such as: anatomy, body shape, how and where to take measurements, the step by step drafting instructions are very useful, as they have minimized the time spent on fitting.

I also conduct sewing classes and I am excited to be able to pass on my knowledge and expertise to others. I get great satisfaction seeing the student achieve results particularly with only one fitting for skirt and pant.

Thank you, Pattern Making Academy, for sharing your knowledge and experience.

Helen Wilhelm
Diploma of Applied Fashion Design and Technology
Barossa Valley SA

Pattern Making Academy’s vision is a commitment to promoting the sustainability of pattern engineering by combining the science of pattern making with the creative art of fashion design while continuing to research and support new initiatives in the field of product development.

Pattern Making Academy’s mission is to develop a range of publications that share time-honoured knowledge and innovative skills for addressing many of the challenges encountered in the design and production of female garments. Current challenges include sustainability concerns centred around garment fit issues, resulting in poor sell-throughs, waste of material and creating an excessive amount of landfill.